Salicylic Acid: The What, Why & Best of it

Salicylic acid has long been the go-to favorite in the acne department. This chemical exfoliator is unrivaled in its ability to cleanse and prevent blemishes, and for a good reason. You might not know that salicylic acid is safe for all skin types and can help with a variety of skin problems. Furthermore, it provides benefits that other acids (such as glycolic and lactic acid) do not. Consider this post a one-stop shop for all things salicylic acid. You'll find out how it works, what it can do for your skin, which products to try, and when you may expect to see effects.

The What

Salicylic acid is a form of beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that comes from natural sources such as willow tree bark, wintergreen leaves, and sweet birch bark.

Although this is the most well-known BHA, many other, less well-known BHAs have a comparable effect on the skin.

Willow bark extract or salix nigra bark extract

Betaine salicylate

Beta hydroxybutyric acid

Tropic acid

Trethocanic acid

[/list]

Salicylic acid is a salicylate, which means it comes from the same family as aspirin. Salicylic acid and other BHAs, being salicylates, may mix with oil as well as water (they're oil-soluble). On the other hand, salicylic acid should be avoided by persons who are allergic to salicylates.

Salicylic acid works on your skin in the following way:

Softens and dissolves the "glue" that holds skin cells together: First, it softens and dissolves the intercellular cement material, which is the substance that holds skin cells together.

Dead skin cells get loosened and readily sloughed from the skin surface once these connections are weakened.

Because it is an oil-soluble acid, it may penetrate deep into pores and clean them thoroughly. It exfoliates the pore lining, removes trapped sebum, and allows oil to flow more freely out of the pores.

It also helps keep oily skin under control by dissolving oil and inhibiting the cells that create excess sebum.

Reduces inflammation: It has an anti-inflammatory effect, similar to aspirin. As a result, it soothes the skin, lowers redness, and reduces swelling.

[/list]

The Why

So, how can salicylic acid benefit your skin? Let us give you a rundown of the various techniques:

Clears and Prevents Acne: It clears and calms present breakouts and aids in the prevention of future comedones formation.

[/list]

Multiple studies have shown that a concentration of as little as 0.5 percent can reduce the quantity and severity of all types of acne lesions, outperforming benzoyl peroxide. In another study, 95 percent of patients saw improved acne after four weeks while utilizing a 1.5 percent concentration, with 20% seeing total clearance.

Rather than spot-treating, the goal is to use it all over your body daily, even if you don't have active acne. Rather than treating pimples when they occur, it's more effective to use a moderate salicylic acid medication every day. Regularly, this helps avoid outbreaks.

It also softens blackheads, making them easier to remove and preventing the formation of new blackheads.

Reduces Excess Oil: Anyone with oily skin can benefit from it because it also dries out sebum and slows down production, something alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) lack.

[/list]

Salicylic acid is lipophilic, which means it may dissolve oils. This enables it to enter the pores and dry up your oily skin. It also decreases oil output.

The goal is to discover the proper amount and frequency of exfoliation to keep your skin's sebum in check without drying it out too much. If you have oily, robust skin, you'll probably be able to handle the maximum 2 percent concentration twice a day. On the other hand, more delicate types should opt for something gentler, such as 0.5-1 percent, and use it once or twice a day.

Minimizes Pores: You can't make your pores smaller, but you can make them appear smaller by keeping them clean, which salicylic acid can assist with.

[/list]

Pores appear larger because they are filled with dead skin cells combined with oil. They won't be as stretched out if you clean and unclog them with a BHA.

Smooths and Brightens: AHAs aren't the sole way to exfoliate your skin's surface, contrary to popular belief. There's no reason why a BHA couldn't be used in the same way to achieve brighter, smoother skin.

[/list]

Exfoliation reduces the thickness of the dead-skin-cell layer, giving the skin a brighter, more luminous appearance.

5. Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles

Salicylic acid's exfoliative qualities have been demonstrated to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles over time by encouraging collagen formation.

A weekly 30 percent peel, for example, was linked to a thicker epidermal layer, dense collagen, and elastic fibers after six weeks in one study.

Fades Pigmentation: Salicylic acid should be considered by anyone with dark spots, post-acne markings, or sun damage. It works to reduce pigmentation by exfoliating away the darkened surface cells to reveal the fresh young cells beneath. It also has modest melanin-inhibiting properties with a low risk of irritation.

[/list]

While some AHAs and other acids might cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, you won't see that with salicylic acid. It's a highly safe and predictable acid. It's used to treat patients with darker skin who want to get rid of sun and aging spots and hyperpigmentation.

The Best of it

Because salicylic acid used to be sold largely as a spot treatment for pimples, many people are unaware of its various benefits. But, like glycolic and lactic acids, you should use it in an all-over toner, gel, or serum to get the most out of it.

Fortunately, more and more formulas are becoming available that enable us to do so. Here are some of my favorites.

 

[Dhruv Bindhani]

This post provides a comprehensive guide to salicylic acid, a popular and effective ingredient in skincare, particularly for acne and oily skin concerns. It breaks down what salicylic acid is, how it works, its diverse benefits, and how to incorporate it into a skincare routine.

Here's a summary of the key takeaways:

The "What" - Understanding Salicylic Acid:

• Type of Acid: Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), naturally derived from sources like willow tree bark, wintergreen leaves, and sweet birch bark.
• Other BHAs: While salicylic acid is the most recognized BHA, others include willow bark extract, betaine salicylate, beta hydroxybutyric acid, tropic acid, and trethocanic acid.
• Oil-Soluble Nature: Unlike alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) which are water-soluble, salicylic acid is oil-soluble (lipophilic). This crucial property allows it to mix with oil and penetrate deep into pores.
• Aspirin Family: It's a salicylate, belonging to the same family as aspirin, and consequently possesses anti-inflammatory properties.
• Allergy Alert: Individuals with salicylate allergies should avoid salicylic acid.

How Salicylic Acid Works on Your Skin:

1. Exfoliation: It softens and dissolves the "glue" (intercellular cement) that holds dead skin cells together, allowing them to slough off easily from the skin's surface.
2. Deep Pore Cleaning: Its oil-solubility enables it to penetrate deep into pores, exfoliate the pore lining, remove trapped sebum, and allow oil to flow more freely.
3. Oil Control: It actively dissolves oil and inhibits cells that produce excess sebum, helping to manage oily skin.
4. Reduces Inflammation: Similar to aspirin, it has an anti-inflammatory effect, soothing the skin, reducing redness, and decreasing swelling associated with breakouts.

The "Why" - Benefits for Your Skin:

1. Clears and Prevents Acne:
   
   • Effectively clears existing breakouts and prevents the formation of future comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).
   • Studies show even low concentrations (0.5% and 1.5%) significantly reduce acne severity.
   • For optimal prevention, it's recommended for daily, all-over use rather than just as a spot treatment.
   • Softens blackheads, making them easier to remove.
2. Reduces Excess Oil:
   
   • Its lipophilic nature allows it to dissolve oils within the pores and slow down sebum production.
   • Helps control oily skin, a benefit that AHAs typically lack.
   • Finding the right concentration (0.5-1% for sensitive skin, up to 2% twice daily for robust oily skin) and frequency is key to avoid over-drying.
3. Minimizes Pores:
   
   • While it doesn't physically shrink pores, it makes them appear smaller by keeping them clean and unclogged of dead skin cells and oil.
4. Smooths and Brightens Skin:
   
   • Acts as a chemical exfoliant on the skin's surface, similar to AHAs, leading to brighter, more luminous skin by reducing the layer of dead skin cells.
5. Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles:
   
   • Its exfoliative properties encourage collagen formation over time, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. A weekly 30% peel, for example, showed a thicker epidermal layer and denser collagen after six weeks.
6. Fades Pigmentation:
   
   • Helps reduce dark spots, post-acne marks, and sun damage by exfoliating away darkened surface cells.
   • Possesses mild melanin-inhibiting properties with a low risk of irritation, making it a safe option for those with darker skin tones seeking to treat hyperpigmentation. Unlike some AHAs, it's less likely to cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

How to Use It ("The Best of It"):

• Instead of just a spot treatment, the article recommends using salicylic acid in an all-over toner, gel, or serum for maximum benefits.
• When starting, it's generally advisable to introduce salicylic acid slowly into your routine (e.g., a few times a week) and gradually increase frequency as your skin builds tolerance, especially for sensitive skin.
• Sun Protection is Crucial: As with any exfoliant, salicylic acid can increase sun sensitivity. Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily, especially when incorporating salicylic acid into your routine.
• Watch for Over-exfoliation: Signs like excessive dryness, redness, peeling, or stinging indicate you might be using it too frequently or at too high a concentration. Adjust usage accordingly.
• Combining with other actives: Be cautious when combining salicylic acid with other potent actives like retinoids or other AHAs, as this can lead to irritation. It's often recommended to use them on alternate days or at different times of the day.

In conclusion, salicylic acid is a versatile and highly effective skincare ingredient, particularly beneficial for those with acne-prone, oily, or congested skin, but also offering anti-aging and brightening advantages for various skin types when used correctly.