abhishreshthaa
Abhijeet S
Equipment and Supplies required in Vermicomposting
The materials needed to start a vermicomposting system are simple and inexpensive. The following are the requirements of Vermicomposting process:
Worm Bin. A suitable bin can be constructed of untreated, non-aromatic wood, or plastic container to be purchased. A wooden box is better if we wish to keep the worms outdoors, because it will keep the worms cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.
An outdoor wooden bin can even serve double-duty as a bench. If a plastic container is used, it should be thoroughly washed and rinsed before the worms and bedding are added. The bin size depends on the amount of food produced by the household.
For two people (producing approximately 31/2 pounds of food scraps per week), a box 2 feet wide, 2 feet long, and 8 inches deep should be adequate. A 2-foot-by-3- foot box is suitable for four to six people (about 6 pounds of waste per week). Red worms (the type used for vermicomposting) thrive in moist bedding in a bin with air holes on all sides. For aeration and drainage, drill nine l/2-inch holes in the bottom of the 2-foot-by-2- foot bin or 12 holes in the 2-foot-by-3-foot bin.
Place a plastic tray under the worm bin to collect any moisture that may seep out. Drilling holes on the upper sides of your bin will also help your worms get needed oxygen and prevent odors in your worm bin. Keep a lid on the bin, as worms like to work in the dark.
Ideally Vermicompost should consist of seven layers of: -
i) Pebbles
ii) Coarse Sand
iii) Processed Soil mixed with cow dung
iv) Bagasse (Sugarcane Bagasse)
v) Processed cow dung + Processed vermicastings +Earthworms
vi) Sugarcane Bagasse
vii) Vermiculture soil with many productive earthworms
These seven layers keep the earthworms cool and extremely productive.
Vermiculture Bins used for Commercial Purpose
Vermiculture bin used for Kitchen Waste
Bedding. The worms need bedding material in which to burrow and to bury the garbage. It should be a non-toxic, fluffy material that holds moisture and allows air to circulate. Suitable materials include shredded paper (such as black-and-white newspapers, paper bags, computer paper, or cardboard); composted animal manure (cow, horse, or rabbit); shredded, decaying leaves; peat moss (which increases moisture retention); or any combination of these. Glossy paper or Magazines should be avoided.
Two handfuls of soil to supply roughage for the worms. Adding crushed eggshells provides not only roughage but also calcium for the worms, and it lowers acidity in the bin. About 4 to 6 pounds of bedding is needed for a 2- foot-by-2-foot bin (for two people), and 9 to 14 pounds of bedding should be used in a 2- foot-by-3-foot bin (for four to six people). Worms will eat the bedding, so you will need to add more within a few months.
Water. The bedding must be kept moist to enable the worms to breathe. To keep bedding moist, we must add 3 pints of water for each pound 7 of bedding. You will need about 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 gallons of water for 4 to 6 pounds of bedding. If the bedding dries out, use a plant mister to spritz some water on it.
Worms. It is important to get the type of worms that will thrive in a worm bin. Only red worms or "wigglers" (Eisenia foetida) should be used (do not use night crawlers or other types of worms). Worms can be obtained from bait shops, nurseries, or by mail from commercial worm growers; the commercial growers are the most reliable source. Add 1 pound of worms to the 2-foot- by-2-foot bin or 2 pounds of worms to the 2-foot-by-3- foot bin.
Food Scraps. Worms must be fed on any non-meat organic waste such as vegetables, fruits, eggshells, tea bags, coffee grounds, paper coffee filters, and shredded garden waste. Worms especially like cantaloupe, watermelon, and pumpkin. Limit the amount of citrus fruits that you add to the bin to prevent it from becoming too acidic. Break or cut food scraps into small pieces so they break down easier. Do not add meat scraps or bones, fish, greasy or oily foods, fat, tobacco, or pet or human manure. Be sure to cover the food scraps completely with the bedding to discourage fruit flies and molds.
One pound of worms will eat about four pounds of food scraps a week.
If you add more food than your worms can handle, anaerobic conditions will set in and cause odor. This should dissipate shortly if you stop adding food for a while.
Temperature.
Worms must be kept at anything between 15 to 30 degrees C., Mean humidity should be 55%, The pH of the bed should be as close to 6.5 as possible, with 7.0 and 6.0 being the upper & lower pH limits. Earthworms do not survive in water.
Take care on the following
Do not feed them; metals, foils, plastics, chemicals, oils, solvents, insecticides, soaps, paint, medicines, cloth, rubber, glass etc. Also avoid other poisonous plants (if you are unsure about a species, ask a nurseryman). Be careful of plants that have been sprayed with pesticides.
The materials needed to start a vermicomposting system are simple and inexpensive. The following are the requirements of Vermicomposting process:
Worm Bin. A suitable bin can be constructed of untreated, non-aromatic wood, or plastic container to be purchased. A wooden box is better if we wish to keep the worms outdoors, because it will keep the worms cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.
An outdoor wooden bin can even serve double-duty as a bench. If a plastic container is used, it should be thoroughly washed and rinsed before the worms and bedding are added. The bin size depends on the amount of food produced by the household.
For two people (producing approximately 31/2 pounds of food scraps per week), a box 2 feet wide, 2 feet long, and 8 inches deep should be adequate. A 2-foot-by-3- foot box is suitable for four to six people (about 6 pounds of waste per week). Red worms (the type used for vermicomposting) thrive in moist bedding in a bin with air holes on all sides. For aeration and drainage, drill nine l/2-inch holes in the bottom of the 2-foot-by-2- foot bin or 12 holes in the 2-foot-by-3-foot bin.
Place a plastic tray under the worm bin to collect any moisture that may seep out. Drilling holes on the upper sides of your bin will also help your worms get needed oxygen and prevent odors in your worm bin. Keep a lid on the bin, as worms like to work in the dark.
Ideally Vermicompost should consist of seven layers of: -
i) Pebbles
ii) Coarse Sand
iii) Processed Soil mixed with cow dung
iv) Bagasse (Sugarcane Bagasse)
v) Processed cow dung + Processed vermicastings +Earthworms
vi) Sugarcane Bagasse
vii) Vermiculture soil with many productive earthworms
These seven layers keep the earthworms cool and extremely productive.
Vermiculture Bins used for Commercial Purpose
Vermiculture bin used for Kitchen Waste
Bedding. The worms need bedding material in which to burrow and to bury the garbage. It should be a non-toxic, fluffy material that holds moisture and allows air to circulate. Suitable materials include shredded paper (such as black-and-white newspapers, paper bags, computer paper, or cardboard); composted animal manure (cow, horse, or rabbit); shredded, decaying leaves; peat moss (which increases moisture retention); or any combination of these. Glossy paper or Magazines should be avoided.
Two handfuls of soil to supply roughage for the worms. Adding crushed eggshells provides not only roughage but also calcium for the worms, and it lowers acidity in the bin. About 4 to 6 pounds of bedding is needed for a 2- foot-by-2-foot bin (for two people), and 9 to 14 pounds of bedding should be used in a 2- foot-by-3-foot bin (for four to six people). Worms will eat the bedding, so you will need to add more within a few months.
Water. The bedding must be kept moist to enable the worms to breathe. To keep bedding moist, we must add 3 pints of water for each pound 7 of bedding. You will need about 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 gallons of water for 4 to 6 pounds of bedding. If the bedding dries out, use a plant mister to spritz some water on it.
Worms. It is important to get the type of worms that will thrive in a worm bin. Only red worms or "wigglers" (Eisenia foetida) should be used (do not use night crawlers or other types of worms). Worms can be obtained from bait shops, nurseries, or by mail from commercial worm growers; the commercial growers are the most reliable source. Add 1 pound of worms to the 2-foot- by-2-foot bin or 2 pounds of worms to the 2-foot-by-3- foot bin.
Food Scraps. Worms must be fed on any non-meat organic waste such as vegetables, fruits, eggshells, tea bags, coffee grounds, paper coffee filters, and shredded garden waste. Worms especially like cantaloupe, watermelon, and pumpkin. Limit the amount of citrus fruits that you add to the bin to prevent it from becoming too acidic. Break or cut food scraps into small pieces so they break down easier. Do not add meat scraps or bones, fish, greasy or oily foods, fat, tobacco, or pet or human manure. Be sure to cover the food scraps completely with the bedding to discourage fruit flies and molds.
One pound of worms will eat about four pounds of food scraps a week.
If you add more food than your worms can handle, anaerobic conditions will set in and cause odor. This should dissipate shortly if you stop adding food for a while.
Temperature.
Worms must be kept at anything between 15 to 30 degrees C., Mean humidity should be 55%, The pH of the bed should be as close to 6.5 as possible, with 7.0 and 6.0 being the upper & lower pH limits. Earthworms do not survive in water.
Take care on the following
Do not feed them; metals, foils, plastics, chemicals, oils, solvents, insecticides, soaps, paint, medicines, cloth, rubber, glass etc. Also avoid other poisonous plants (if you are unsure about a species, ask a nurseryman). Be careful of plants that have been sprayed with pesticides.